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How to get rid of fleasThe best way to end an infestation involves using an integrated approach, attacking the fleas on multiple fronts. 1 Learn about fleas 2 Treat pets 3 Vacuum & sanitize 4 Treat carpets 5 Treat yardsSuppliesFlea drops for catsexample:Advantage IIFlea drops for dogsexample:Frontline PlusBeater bar vacuumexample:Dyson AnimalInsect growth regulatorexample:Martin’s IGRIntegrated flea control (IFC) is the implemention of multiple control strategies. IFC programs target various life stages, on pets and in the environment. Eradicates entire flea populationLowers the odds of re-infestationDelays insecticide resistanceReduces effects of poor compliance Educating the pet ownerUsing a modern adulticideUsing an insect growth regulatorVacuuming and mechanical control No flea control product is 100% effective. Combining multiple strategies helps to cover the gaps. For example, when adulticides on pets fall below 100% efficacy, an insect growth regulator (IGR) in the environment can stop newly fallen eggs from developing.
Applying flea drops to pets can be enough to end an infestation.
what is the best way to clean grout between ceramic tilesThis sole control measure is most successful with indoor cats. Outdoors, pets are at a greater risk of re-acquiring fleas.As effective as flea drops are, treating the premises is still advisable. This is especially true when establishing control, when infestations are severe, if there are foreseen compliance issues, or if members of the household are allergic to fleas. Premise treatments also prevent re-infestation from unseen reservoirs.Step 1 Learn about fleasUnderstanding fleas makes controlling them easier and sets realistic expectations. It’s important to know the flea life cycle, and where different stages live.Start hereVisit the FleaScience homepage for a quick overview of fleas and their control.BrowseVisit the Flea Encyclopedia for a list of all our well-researched articles on fleas.
SearchSearch the knowledge base:The 3 goals of flea controlRelieve pet discomfortKill fleas on premisesPrevent re-infestationStep 2 Treat pets Adult fleas live on their host, rarely leaving. Infested dogs and cats are regularly being bitten. The first priority when battling fleas is to relieve pet discomfort. This is done by killing the fleas on them, and is achieved with flea drops. Flea drops are dual-action, containing an adulticide and insect growth regulator. Common adulticides are imidacloprid and fipronil. Common IGRs are pyriproxyfen (Nylar) and methoprene (Precor).The adulticide quickly kills existing fleas on pets. And fleas jumping onto pets are killed before they can reproduce.The IGR sterilizes female fleas, so they can’t lay viable eggs even if they survive the adulticide. And IGR-exposed eggs on pets are unable to develop. Treat pets for the labeled 3-4 months to prevent re-infestation. The 1st treatment kills adult fleas, but immature stages live in carpets.
For months, adults will continue emerging to infest pets. If a female feeds freely, she’ll lay eggs within 48 hours. The infestation will continue.Flea drop activity lasts 30 days before reapplication is needed. With monthly treatments, year-round or seasonal control is possible. Treat all pets, even those without fleas.Apply the correct dosage. Don’t split treatments between pets.Apply to the animal’s skin, not fur.Apply when the animal is dry.Don’t allow a lapse in treatment.Don’t stop treatment early, even during winter.After treatment, don’t immerse pets in water more than once weekly.This should be reserved as a last resort.Oral treatments may be a better option for pets with a skin disease.Only treat cats with products labeled specifically for use on cats.Optional Soothing shampooBathing pets with a soothing, anti-itch shampoo quickly relieves existing flea bites. After applying flea drops, wait at least 4 days before shampooing pets. If bathing is done first, allow pets to thoroughly dry before using drops.
Step 3 Vacuuming & sanitationThe next step is to thoroughly vacuum the home. Do this prior to spraying the premises. Vacuuming lifts up the carpet fibers so insecticides can penetrate deeper into the matrix. Allows sprays to penetrate deeperRemoves flea eggs, larvae, pupae and adultsRemoves larval foodTriggers cocoon emergenceForces naked pupae to developReduces the need for chemicals Thoroughly vacuum the entire home, especially when establishing control. Rooms frequented by pets will contain the most fleas. Take extra time in areas where pets sleep, groom and eat. For example, beside a bed in bedrooms, or near a sofa in living rooms.If possible, remove furniture from hot-spot rooms. If not, vacuum under the pieces. When eggs fall near furniture, upon hatching, the larvae may seek refuge underneath. Remove pillows and cushions from seats, especially those used by pets. Vacuum thoroughly, giving attention to crevices and fabric folds.Don’t neglect rugs or other floor types (e.g. hardwood, tile, linoleum).
Focus on cracks in hardwood floors, and crevices around baseboards. Mopping may be advisable on some floors. Flea eggs are removed from carpets easier than larvae. Eggs hatch two days after being laid. Thus, it’s best to vacuum at least every other day. Continue this routine for at least 8 weeks. Even after proper treatment, fleas will continue emerging from carpets for around 2 months (up to 6 months). Vacuuming carpets can remove 32-90% of eggs, 15-50% of larvae, 63.8% of pupae, and 95% of emerged adults. A portion of the larval food (flea dirt) also gets sucked up. Efficacy decreases with higher density carpets.The process of being vacuumed up kills 100% of pre-adult fleas, and 95% of adults. Further efforts to sanitize the vacuum’s bag or canister are unnecessary. Launder pet bedding, rugs & blanketsOnce a weekWash at 140°F for ten minutesDry at the highest heat settingClean and sanitize pet carriers and kennelsGive pets a rug to sleep on and clean it regularly
Ongoing vacuuming and environmental sanitation are crucial parts of any flea control program. They accelerate the extermination process. However, these measures alone won’t end an infestation, as many immature fleas will escape removal.Optional Flea trapsFleas traps attract and capture emerging adult fleas from the environment. Traps are useful for assessing flea populations and for determining when the infestation has ended. They will do little to end an infestation on their own.Step 5 Treat yardsAlmost all flea infestations begin outdoors, as new fleas emerge from cocoons and jump on pets. While fleas can transfer between hosts, it’s rare. Pyriproxyfen’s creation led to effective outdoor flea control. It’s the first IGR photo-stable enough to persist outdoors for extended periods. It maintains residual activity for 3 to 12 weeks. In high concentrations, 75% of fleas are controlled for 11 months.Conventional insecticides (including permethrin) have very limited residual activity when applied outdoors.
After 24 hours, efficacy falls below 50% against flea larvae. Even other IGRs are poor choices outdoors. Compared to pyriproxyfen, methoprene isn’t nearly as stable when exposed to UV radiation. Outdoors, fleas can only survive in shaded, moist areas. Hot-spots are found in dense vegetation and beneath porches. Pets venturing into these areas can rapidly acquire fleas. It’s a good idea to clear away dead brush an debris, or block pet access completely. Infested urban wildlife traverse neighborhoods and continuously drop flea eggs into the environment. When their territories overlap with a pet’s, domestic infestations begin. If this initial flea reservoir isn’t eradicated, re-infestation is a threat. OpossumsRaccoonsCoyotesFoxesSkunksHedge hogsBobcatsFeral catsFeral dogsA few rodentsFinal Considerations Even after proper treatment, immature fleas will develop in the environment for months. Upon maturing, they’ll emerge from carpets and attempt to feed on pets.